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Asko Induction Cooktops: Models, Faults and Repair

The glass looks fine and the zone stays cold. Start with the circuit and the pan, then decide whether it needs a visit.

At a glance

Overview

An induction cooktop heats the pan rather than the glass, which is why it appeals in a San Francisco kitchen remodel where a small room has to do a lot. The same design makes faults a little different from a gas or radiant cooktop: the surface may look perfect while a zone refuses to start, or a fan beneath it runs far longer than you expect. Most of the useful clues come from what the cooktop does and what you were cooking in when it stopped.

Cooktops in our lineup

Two Asko induction cooktops are listed on this site. The HI1995G is an induction cooktop listed at 36 inches (90.4 cm). The HI1655G is also an induction cooktop, with no size given. We do not describe zones, power levels or controls for either, because the manual for your exact unit is the source for those.

Where to find the model number

The model information is usually on a plate on the underside of the cooktop, which is hard to see once it is installed. Look for the original manual, the installer’s invoice or a photograph of the plate taken during the remodel. If none of these exist, a technician can read the plate during the visit.

What goes wrong most often

  • A zone will not heat. The display responds but nothing warms up. See induction cooktop not heating.
  • Pan not detected. The cooktop blinks or beeps at a pan that used to work. See pan not detected.
  • Controls act oddly. Touch controls that respond late, switch themselves on or ignore a touch. Spilled liquid on the control area is a common cause.
  • Cooling fan noise. The fan underneath keeps running after cooking, or a new buzzing starts from beneath the surface.
  • Whole cooktop dead. No lights and no response at all.
  • Cracked or chipped glass. This is a stop-using-it situation.

The circuit matters

An induction cooktop is hard-wired on its own dedicated circuit. A breaker that has tripped, a loose connection at the junction box or a damaged feed will look like a dead cooktop, yet the cooktop itself may be fine. That is why our checks start at the panel and only then move on to the unit. We do not test live circuits or take apart a junction box as an owner check; a technician does that during diagnosis.

Cookware and cleaning

Induction responds to cookware that reacts to a magnetic field. A simple test: hold a fridge magnet against the bottom of the pan. If the magnet does not cling, the pan is a likely reason for the fault. Beyond that, a pan with a warped base can rock and lose contact with the surface, and a very small pan may not be sensed at all.

Keep the glass clean with a soft cloth. Sugar spills and burnt-on food can interfere with the controls and the sensors around each zone.

Safe first steps

  1. Check the breaker that feeds the cooktop. If it has tripped, reset it once only.
  2. Wipe the control area and the glass dry and clean, then try again.
  3. Try a different pan that you know is magnetic and sits flat.
  4. Write down any message or beep pattern the cooktop gives.
  5. Try one controlled power reset at the breaker, wait, and switch back on.

Do not lift the cooktop, remove the underside cover or work on the wiring. If you smell burning or see sparks or scorching, switch the circuit off at the breaker and stop using the cooktop.

Next steps

When the checks do not help, book Asko cooktop repair. The technician starts with diagnosis, gives you a written estimate, and does not repair anything until you approve it. Bring the model number if you can, the pan you had in use and a note of when the fault first showed.

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